Contributors, viii

Foreword, xiv
Jeffrey S. Dover

Introduction: Definition of Cosmetic Dermatology, xv
Zoe D. Draelos

Section I: Basic Concepts, 1

Part One: Skin Physiology Pertinent to Cosmetic Dermatology, 3

1 Epidermal barrier, 3
Sreekumar Pillai, Marc Cornell, and Christian Oresajo

2 Photoaging, 13
Murad Alam and Jillian Havey

3 Self-perceived sensitive skin, 22
Olivier de Lacharrière

4 Pigmentation and skin of color, 27
Chesahna Kindred and Rebat M. Halder

5 Sensitive skin and the somatosensory system, 38
Francis McGlone and David Reilly

6 Novel, compelling non-invasive techniques for evaluating cosmetic products, 47
Thomas J. Stephens, Christian Oresajo, Robert Goodman,Margarita Yatskayer, and Paul Kavanaugh

7 Contact dermatitis and topical agents, 55
David E. Cohen and Aieska de Souza

Part Two: Delivery of Cosmetic Skin Actives, 62

8 Percutaneous delivery of cosmetic actives to the skin, 62
Marc Cornell, Sreekumar Pillai, and Christian Oresajo

9 Creams, lotions, and ointments, 71
Irwin Palefsky

Section II: Hygiene Products, 75

Part One: Cleansers, 77

10 Bar cleansers, 77
Anthony W. Johnson and K.P. Ananthapadmanabhan

11 Personal cleansers: body washes, 88
Keith Ertel and Heather Focht

12 Facial cleansers and cleansing cloths, 95
Erik Hasenoehrl

13 Non-foaming and low-foaming cleansers, 102
Duncan Aust

14 Liquid hand cleansers and sanitizers, 106
Duane Charbonneau

15 Shampoos for normal scalp hygiene and dandruff, 115
James R. Schwartz, Marcela Valenzuela, and Sanjeev Midha

Part Two: Moisturizers, 123

16 Facial moisturizers, 123
Yohini Appa

17 Hand and foot moisturizers, 130
Teresa M. Weber, Andrea M. Schoelermann, Ute Breitenbach,Ulrich Scherdin, and Alexandra Kowcz

18 Sunless tanning products, 139
Angelike Galdi, Peter Foltis, and Christian Oresajo

19 Sunscreens, 144
Dominique Moyal, Angelike Galdi, and Christian Oresajo

Part Three: Personal Care Products, 150

20 Antiperspirants and deodorants, 150
Eric S. Abrutyn

21 Blade shaving, 156
Keith Ertel and Gillian McFeat

Section III: Adornment, 165

Part One: Colored Facial Cosmetics, 167

22 Facial foundation, 167
Sylvie Guichard and Véronique Roulier

23 Camoufl age techniques, 176
Anne Bouloc

24 Lips and lipsticks, 184
Catherine Heusèle, Hervé Cantin, and Frédéric Bonté

25 Eye cosmetics, 190
Sarah A. Vickery, Peter Wyatt, and John Gilley

Part Two: Nail Cosmetics, 197

26 Nail physiology and grooming, 197
Phoebe Rich and Heh Shin R. Kwak

27 Colored nail cosmetics and hardeners, 206
Paul H. Bryson and Sunil J. Sirdesai

28 Cosmetic prostheses as artificial nail enhancements, 215
Douglas Schoon

Part Three: Hair Cosmetics, 222

29 Hair physiology and grooming, 222
Maria Hordinsky, Ana Paula Avancini Caramori, and Jeff D. Donovan

30 Hair dyes, 227
Frauke Neuser and Harald Schlatter

31 Permanent hair waving, 236
Annette Schwan-Jonczyk and Gerhard Sendelbach

32 Hair straightening, 248
Harold Bryant, Felicia Dixon, Angela Ellington, and Crystal Porter

33 Hair styling – technology and formulations, 256
Thomas Krause, Rene Rust, and Dianna C. Kenneally

Section IV: Antiaging, 267

Part One: Cosmeceuticals, 269

34 Botanicals, 269
Carl Thornfeldt

35 Antioxidants and anti-inflammatories, 281
Bryan B. Fuller

36 Peptides and proteins, 292
Karl Lintner

37 Cellular growth factors, 302
Richard E. Fitzpatrick and Rahul C. Mehta

38 Retinoids, 309
Olivier Sorg, Gürkan Kaya, Behrooz Kasraee, and Jean H. Saurat

39 Topical vitamins, 319
Donald L. Bissett

40 Clinical uses of hydroxyacids, 327
Barbara Green, Eugene J. Van Scott, and Ruey Yu

41 The contribution of dietary nutrients and supplements to skin health, 335
Helen Knaggs, Steve Wood, Doug Burke, and Jan Lephart

Part Two: Injectable Antiaging Techniques, 342

42 Botulinum toxins, 342
Joel L. Cohen and Scott R. Freeman

43 Hyaluronic acid fillers, 352
Mark S. Nestor

44 Calcium hydroxylapatite for soft tissue augmentation, 356
Stephen Mandy

45 Skin fillers, 361
Neil Sadick, Misbah H. Khan, and Babar K. Rao

46 Polylactic acid fillers, 373
Kenneth R. Beer

Part Three: Resurfacing Techniques, 377

47 Superficial chemical peels, 377
M. Amanda Jacobs and Randall Roenigk

48 Medium depth chemical peels, 384
Gary D. Monheit and Jens J. Thiele

49 CO2 laser resurfacing: confluent and fractionated, 393
Mitchel P. Goldman

50 Non-ablative resurfacing, 409
David J. Goldberg and Katie Rossy

51 Microdermabrasion, 418
Pearl Grimes

52 Dermabrasion, 426
Christopher Harmon and Chad Prather

Part Four: Skin Modulation Techniques, 432

53 Laser-assisted hair removal, 432
Keyvan Nouri, Voraphol Vejjabhinanta, Nidhi Avashia, and Rawat Charoensawad

54 Radiofrequency devices, 439
Vic Narurkar

55 LED photomodulation for reversal of photoaging and reduction of infl ammation, 444
Robert Weiss, Roy Geronemus, David McDaniel, and Corinne Granger

Part Five: Skin Contouring Techniques, 450

56 Liposuction: manual, mechanical, and laser assisted, 450
Emily Tierney and C. William Hanke

57 Liposuction of the neck, 463
Kimberly J. Butterwick

58 Hand recontouring with calcium hydroxylapatite, 473
Kenneth L. Edelson

Part Six: Implementation of Cosmetic Dermatology into Therapeutics, 480

59 Antiaging regimens, 480
Karen E. Burke

60 Over-the-counter acne treatments, 488
Emmy M. Graber and Diane Thiboutot

61 Rosacea regimens, 495
Joseph Bikowski

62 Eczema regimens, 502
Zoe D. Draelos

63 Psoriasis regimens, 507
Steven R. Feldman and Lindsay C. Strowd

Index, 514